Recently I visited a much anticipated wine event at Sestrilevante in Liguria. This was the fifth edition, held in a beautiful location direct at the seaside in a picturesque bay. I used to live closeby, so it felt a bit like going back ‘home’. Not in the least for seeing all these marvellous dedicated winemakers and greeting them after such a long time.
Just writing to the organization, done by a wonderful couple Nicoletta & Paolo, saying I was able to make it was a feast by the lovely way they replied, feeling most welcome. So I did my preparation by checking all the names- over 70 producers – and tasting everything in one day and a half is still merely impossible. Compliments to them for the organization and also for the selection with interesting ‘new’ names.
Eventhough it was halfway November the weather was still gorgeous and people were still sunbathing on the beach and some even took the plunge.
Ligurian focus
Colli di Luni
The first winemaker I went to say hi was Alessandro Vignali who makes his wines under the name Terra della Luna so obviously from the Colli dei Luni – the apellation shared with Tuscany. He makes incredible white wines based on Vermentino, without any sulfites added. I used to be totally hung up on his Lun’antica but nowadays his Vinacciolo di Luna is my favorite. And the Plinio is also wonderful, specially if you get the chance to taste older vintages. The Lun’antica ’18 was very elegant. Earlier this summer I had the privilige to present these wines to a Dutch audience on a winefestival.
From the same area (Ortonuovo) and also a garantee is Andrea Marchesini from La Felce. His wines are cleaner in style and more easy recognizable. I love ‘in Origine 400’ , made in a old fashioned way, from 60 year old vines, macerated on the skins for about two weeks in a lovely blend with Vermentino, Trebbiano, and Malvasia di Candia Aromatica.
Discovery Luna Mater
One of my biggest discoveries from the same area and therefor new for me was Lunamater from Castelnuovo Magra. They work biodynamicly in the vineyard, have two hectares and I was very impressed with their whole line. Two partners, Jacopo and Massimo and are rather inventive and make even wines in Solera style- an interesting Passito and a white made with flor, the ‘Levathian’ which was very elegant, just like the ‘Fortezza’ named after the fort in Sarzana.
Moving a little up North in the locality Arcola, already mentioned by Mario Soldati for the quality of the wines of that area is Ilenia Spagnoli- who unfortunately wasn’t here on Monday, since she lost her voice. I really like her white ‘Pan’ ’21 which is Vermentino with Albarola, macerated on the skins for six days- very juicy and uplifting. Also the ‘Extreme’ was nice, elegant with good tannins- 15 days of maceration on the skins.
The biggest hero of them all
Winemaking in the Cinque Terre is not for whimps and there is a reason why its called heroic viticulture since the slopes are terribly steep and all must be done by hand, and winemaking only possibleby creating plots holding together by terraces, built brick by brick. O I could go on and on, but that’s for another article. Heydi Bonanini makes impeccable wines at La Possa in Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre- the classical white blend with Vermentino Bosco and Albarola for a lovely dry mineral white- since the vineyards are directly on the seaside. The area however, is mosot famous for the rare dessertwine called Schiacchetra, made from the same grape varieties, which have dried for several months hanging from the cellar ceilings. The wines -there are many more, he likes to experiment also with anfore etc win tons of medals, prices and high scoring points and rightfully so.
Closeby but on the other side of the mountains is Giorgia Grand from Sara Sira who also has a plot in Riomaggiore where she makes her ‘Mediterraneo’ with a high percentage of Bosco (60%) in the blend. This was superjuicy, like her ‘Raixa’ which was more mineral and herbal. Apart from being a sympathic and capable winemaker she also runs la Rosa Blu in La Spezia with a great natural wine selection:) She gets advice from Manuel Pulcini or the ‘enologo bio’- I’ll discuss his wines another time.
Golfo del Tigullio
An area not very well known for its wines to say the least, and a new discovery for me was Casa del Diavolo. Another sympathic female winemaker- how we like these new developments:) is Federica Sala who works one hectare at Castiglione Chiavarese, just around the corner from Sestri Levante/Portofino. Sergio from the famous ristorante la Brinca poured the wines for me to taste, I was honoured. Bianchetta Genoves is the typical grape from the area, which is a synonym for Albarola- her winemade from Bianchetta is called Ciana and had 36 hours of maceration. Juicy and a long finish. I also liked the rosato made from the Cliegiolo grape called Nuaggi, fruity and elegant. Also the Docletto ’20 had good tannins ans acidity.
In the same area at Ne where is also the renowned restaurant La Brinca with in incredible natural winelist, their sommelier Matteo C, was sommelier of the year in 2020/21 (?). Daniele Parma from La Ricolla who unfortunately was at another natural winefair down south. He works biodynamicly and his winemakers friends call him ‘anforizzato’ since he has been rather taken by the anfora and hwas bought a lot of them to experiment with. His Bianchetto Genovese had a ling maceration on the skins for 9 months in terrracotta and the wine was very different – white flowers and white/yellow fruit. His ‘Berette’ which is Vermentino ’21 with 2 months of maceration in anfore was lovely juicy, fresh.
In the same area there is an interesting grape variety, the Scimiscia. The owners of Tenuta Grillo – Guido and Igea, thought as much and bought a house near Santa Margerita and had their first experiment , which is very promising. Still very young and lot’s of tannins going on since they do long maceration on the skins- however very promising elegance, subtle, winegums like.
The other side il Ponente
A lot less winemakers from the Western coast (seen from Genova), and I missed Terazza Singhie, which I am really sorry about. I did taste wines of Roberto Rondelli who is near the border with France at Migliarino in the Rossese area. I liked hi Vermentino’s eventhough I am not a big fan of wine affinated in wood. His rosato ancestrale made from Rossese grapes is nice as the regular rosato with good acidity. The Rossese ‘Arenaria’with six months in steel is nice and fruity and very tasty.
In the next round the wines of Sardegna and some others
known and unknown!
